Wine has been produced in Castellon province for centuries, although it was very nearly wiped out thanks to the phylloxera epidemic that swept through Europe from the late 19^th century, followed by the Spanish government incentives to rip up vineyards in the late 20^th century.

In spite of this turbulent history, wine production in Castellon is having a renaissance, and thank goodness for that. Several artisanal producers here are making low-volume, high-quality wines that are a refreshing change from the regular supermarket fare.

During the 2023 Fira del Vi (Wine Fair) in nearby Sant Mateu we discovered a remarkable wine that left a great impression on us. Labelled as Clos d’Esgarracordes from Baron D’Alba, the wines were intriguing from nose to palette, and we decided that we should go and visit the winery one day.

When some friends from the UK came to visit us this September we decided it was the perfect opportunity. We booked ourselves onto a Clos d’Esgarracordes Wine Tasting Experience, and headed south.

The winery is about an hour away from Casa de Olivos along an attractive route passing through small villages, rolling hills, and olive groves. The winery takes its name from the two nearest villages – la Barona and Vall d’Alba – mashing them together to make a satisfying epithet for a winery.

The wines themselves are branded Clos after the vineyard itself. The Valenciano word ‘clos’ means closed, denoting that grapes produced here are not sold to on through co-operatives for anonymous wine making, but instead kept by the estate for their own vintages.

Baron d’Alba is a family business, set up 24 years ago on a family finca by Sergio Garrido and his father when they planted the first 15 hectares of vines, returning the soil to wine production for the first time since the 1970’s.

Since then, the estate has grown a little more, but production is still limited to around 6,000 cases per year, depending on the season. It’s a healthy production run, but not mass-merchant volumes. And as such, the wines are something of a hidden treasure. You need to be nearby the winery to have the chance to discover them.

We arrived at noon, driving past rows of recently harvested vines. The original stone farmhouse has been extended in the same rustic style to house the winery and guest areas.

Sergio gives a fascinating tour of the vineyard and bodega, and speaks with an understated mix of passion and pride. He and the family have every right to be proud, not only of the fine wines they produce, but the sumptuous environment they have created at Clos.

After the tour comes the tasting. We opted for the Gastro Top package which included a feast of charcuterie and cheeses, followed by barbecued vegetable and meats. As two vegetarians, we were well catered for, and the four of us enjoyed a delicious lunch on the terrace overlooking the vines.

The wines themselves are all remarkable, each in their own way, and the team are on hand to help you discover the complex of aromas and flavours as you go.  We were pleasantly surprised, and  these wines strip away some of our preconceptions about what wines we do or don’t like. The rosé in particular had three of us under it’s spell when we’d have said that we were not really rosé people. Unfortunately we have to wait until 2025 to buy it, but we’ll be grabbing some as soon as it is released.

The oak-aged white is engaging from the moment it is in the glass. It has a deep yellowish tint that belies the dryness of the wine. Inhale deeply from the glass and there’s a hit of stone fruits with toasted and vanilla aromas. In the mouth, it’s round and textured, the oak-aging just detectable, softening and balancing the wine. Delicious with cheeses, salads, seafood, or just on its own.

The young red is equally complex and satisfying. The fruit is herby and ripe, and the oak adds a lovely bass line. Once again, the wine defies it’s age, with low acidity and well developed tannins. It’s a wine that partners well with lean or fatty meats, stews and casseroles. 

We are delighted to offer Clos d’Esgarracordes wines in our welcome amenity to all guests from 2025.

Such a high-quality local wine is the perfect fit with the Casa de Olivos sustainable ethos, and we know it will delight guests when they try it.

And we are also highly recommending the Wine Tasting Experience at Clos d’Esgarracordes to our guests, where they will receive a warm welcome and enjoy a great day out.

Claire & Ed

• The Wine Tasting Experience at Clos d’Esgarracordes  requires booking, and is provided entirely by the team at the winery. Payment is made at Clos during the experience.
• Find out more information on the range of experiences available here.

Please let us know if you would like to book a wine tasting experience at Clos d’Esgarracordes during your stay at Casa de Olivos. We will be pleased to help with your booking at Clos.